Entries in Budapest (3)
Collodion Workshop: Budapest, Hungary
My head spins a little bit when I think about how to tell the stories and describe the adventures we go on with words and a few still images. It’s a lot like trying to explain how to tie your shoelaces over the phone – impossible, but I’ll try.
We arrived in Budapest, Hungary Friday afternoon. It was an 8.5 hour drive. It was problem free and beautiful. We drove in four countries in one day; Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary – 1000 kilometers – averaging 140 kmph – 160 kmph.
I have two friends from Budapest named Zoltan. Zoltan F. and Zoltan K. Zoltan F. lives in Jerusalem. And Zoltan K. lives in Budapest and invited me to do a Wet Plate Collodion workshop there.
Zoltan K. has a major exhibition coming up in September and wanted to spend a couple of days working in the process both as a refresher (he attended the workshop in Vienna last year) and to see what it would be like working in his studio with natural and artificial light.
Budapest is split into two very distinct areas; Buda, the “suburban”, mountainous side and Pest, the flat, urban side. The Danube splits the city. It’s a wonderful city. It’s beautiful, interesting and full of diversity. It reminded me of a blend of Paris and Barcelona. The people are very nice and the city is full of art, culture, and history.
One of the most interesting sites we visited was The Great Synagogue on Dohány Street. It’s the second largest synagogue in the world. We also had a wonderful meal at Rosenstein’s Restaurant, an appropriate transition following the synagogue visit.
I have to admit that I was moved by the beauty and size of the synagogue. It still bothers me that they have to have the police guarding synagogues and anything Jewish here. In Berlin, I saw the same thing – they are huge targets for the nut-jobs of the world.
I bought two really cool black velvet kippahs. One has, “The Great Dohany Street Synagogue – Budapest, Hungary” on the inside. I collect kippahs. I have them from Worms, Germany, Prague, Czech Republic, and some other places, and now Budapest. I wanted to be able to collect something from wherever I go that has significant Jewish history; kippahs seem to work for me that way. We picked up some Klezmer music, too. Summer bought a really cool book called, “Beyond the Nose.” All in all, it was a great experience seeing Europe’s largest synagogue and collecting a few items to remember it by.
We visited the Hungarian House of Photography - Manó Mai House, too. The 19th century skylight studio was beautiful. It would be wonderful to setup and make portraits in that space for a day – or even a few hours! The images would be mind-twisting, for sure. It’s beautiful light!
The workshop was successful, too. There were four people in attendance; Zoltan (the host), Walter (from Oslo, Norway), Szabina, and Zolt. Zolt and Szabina are Hungarian and work with Zoltan.
Zoltan has a beautiful studio nestled at the top of a hill on the Buda side of the city. It’s both spacious and high-end. He’s put a lot of time, effort and money into it, for sure. Budapest this time of year is full of UV light – Collodion loves it there! His studio has a lot of windows, too. You can make plates by natural UV or by artificial lights. He had a 3000 Kelvin mono-light we blasted through a scrim – it was perfect. Exposures were between 4 and 8 seconds.
Zoltan has a large exhibition coming up and wants to make photographs of Hungarian Ballerinas in Wet Plate Collodion. I saw the space of his show – it’s mind-blowing huge! It’s an enormous (beyond enormous) atrium and three levels of galleries. It’s really beautiful right in the middle of the city. He made some really nice “test” or example plates during the workshop of one of Budapest’s top ballerinas. He’s going to do very well with the craft and the concept of Wet Plate Collodion.
Walter is from Oslo, Norway. He was going to go to the United States for a workshop, but ended up attending mine. I’m glad he did. He had some great stories and has a real passion for photography. He made a couple of really beautiful images. One of them was a Whole Plate Alumitype of Summer and it looked like it was made by someone who had several years experience in the process. I was impressed.
It was nice to sit and have a beer or two and dinner with him after a long day of Collodion work, too. He stayed in the same hotel as us. There have been a lot of Norwegians in my workshops – this is a good thing. They seem to bring a sense of passion and love for the craft. And they always have great stories about Norway. We hope to make it to Scandinavia in September, our fingers crossed! I just hope we can afford it, it sounds very expensive there.
Szabina and Zolt both did an outstanding job with the process. They both made wonderful images and seem to really like the process. Szabina is very photogenic. Summer asked her to sit for her. The result was a beautiful little 4x5 Alumitype of Szabina looking like a 1940s American film actress – gorgeous! The portrait of Zolt rocks, too! I really like the backwards, “Lucky’s Auto Parts” on his t-shirt. The whole workshop was a lot of fun! In the end, it was about passionate people working in a process and history that mirrors that passion so well. We had a little (private) exhibition at the end of the workshop on Sunday – wow, the plates all together looked so sweet! It was hard to believe all of that work was created in a couple of days by a handful of people. It made me proud and happy.
Europeans, for the most part, seem more intense and more engaged with learning the process than Americans (my apologies to my American brothers and sisters, just trying to be honest). In reality, I’ve taught a lot more Europeans than Americans, so maybe I’ve forgotten what Americans are like in a Wet Plate Collodion workshop. It’s been a while since I’ve been engaged with Americans. Europe has been my classroom for Wet Plate Collodion and I’m honored to have had the opportunity to teach so many here. I hope I can do that all the way to the end (2011?). I also hope that everyone here that I teach will teach 10 more and that they will teach 10 more and so on and so forth. That’s my goal. Unlike so many teaching workshops, I want to give people the tools and knowledge to pass it on to others and support them to do that.
Wet Plate Collodion Day 2009, Montmartre, & Budapest
There are a lot of times when I feel confused and frustrated about how to manage or organize events and opportunities in my life. Sometimes, I feel like I’m running out of time and other times, I feel like I haven’t maximized the opportunities I’ve been given. It’s always a lesson about being present to your experiences and your life. We’ve been living a hundred lifetimes over the last three years here. It’s been the most rewarding and enlightening time of my life.
If I was a politician and I could pass one bill, it would be called, “HB 2009 The Americans Abroad Act”. It would state that every American must live abroad for at least one year. They would be given a small stipend but they must also contribute to the community that they live in and earn money. The bare essentials would be provided, nothing more. And they must also document their experiences (journals, blogs, photography, art, etc). I would appropriate some of the stimulus package money to make this happen. It would be one the best investments America could make in all aspects of the word investment – financial, moral, spiritual, and cultural, etc. This would change the world, I would guarantee it.
I have some really cool things happening that I wanted to share with you. First, this Saturday, May 2, 2009, is the Worldwide Wet Plate Collodion Day. People from all over the world will be making plates Saturday to honor F.S. Archer, the inventor, and to celebrate the process itself. Over the next few weeks, I’ll gather the images and publish a catalog of the work, and the event, that people can purchase. The idea is to raise money to put a headstone on Archer’s grave.
On Sunday, we’ll be back in Frankfurt (Höchst), weather permitting, making portraits and showing work. The Montmartre Am Main event is always a good time.
I just received word that I’ll be going to Budapest, Hungary at the end of May to do a Wet Plate Collodion workshop. This will be a great trip. We’re driving so it will be a 9 hour trip each way (1000 km each way). We’ll go through Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and then into Hungary. Which is better, Buda or Pest? I hear Buda is mountainous and Pest is urban. With 2 million people there, it’s a substantial city. We'll be spending the Hungarian Fornit - 100 HUF is .45 cents USD (today).
And finally, we’ll be traveling to Paris, France in June. There is a huge photo fair and art fair in Bièvres, just outside of Paris (15 minutes). Jeanne and I went once in 2007, it was a lot of fun. We met some great people. This time, we’ll be in good and familiar company – our friends and colleagues from all over Europe are converging at the fair. It’s going to be a lot of fun. I’m trying to arrange for a space next to the French Alt Photo people to setup my dark-box and chemistry laboratory. I want to do some demonstrations and make some portraits. You couldn’t ask for a better audience.